Newsday Review: 3/4 stars -New-wave luncheonette brings comfort food to new level in Rocky Point
Walking into Broadway Market feels like walking into the nexus of multiple trends: Blinged-out doughnuts are in the pastry case, grass-fed burgers are on the menu, there’s Counter Culture Coffee and both kombucha and cocktails on tap. Exposed ductwork, barn wood, gleaming subway tile and gallons of sunlight make the space feel ready-made for a Kinfolk magazine shoot.
Yet, behind its good looks, Rocky Point’s newest restaurant feels like much more than the sum of its parts. In its month or so since it opened, it’s become a magnet for a broad swath of people in this sleepy burg (you might see tatted-up 20-somethings and grandmothers at adjacent tables) and is one of the most endearing, satisfying places to eat and drink along this stretch of the North Shore.
Owners Ann Olenick and Shasho Pole — a baker and a rancher of grass-fed meats, respectively — hatched plans for Broadway Market while sharing a table at the hamlet’s farmers market. What about a place where you could buy both of their products, pastries and pastured meats but also grab some finely tuned comfort food, like burgers and Dutch babies?
The wait was suspenseful. Broadway Market rose slowly, and the target opening date (last fall) came and went. In the meantime, Olenick and Pole put together a sort of culinary dream team: Chef Johnny “Red” Maher, of Rockville Centre’s Flour Shoppe Cafe & Bakery, came on board to create the menu (he has since moved on, as planned); Dmytro Guydash, the former chef du cuisine at Topping Rose House in Bridgehampton, became executive chef, and pastry chef Elizabeth Moore was hired to bake breads and sweets.
Their skills saturate both sides of the place: to the left, a market where you can order food and artisanal groceries, and to the right, a sunsplashed dining room with a handsome bar that becomes a full-service restaurant after 4 p.m. and during weekend brunches.
And Broadway Market is the ultimate brunch spot. Even if the wait for food can be long, service is perceptive and each detail considered: The OJ. is fresh-squeezed (anchoring a tasty mimosa) and rolls are baked in house, including a crackling brioche for a breakfast sandwich that trades in concentrated flavors, such as maple bacon and a drippy Mornay sauce (of all things) and two fried eggs whose neon yolks squirt when you compress the bun.
The oversized pancake known as Dutch baby is given royal treatment here, akin to a giant popover with flaky edges and, in its center, gooey apples, hazelnut crunch and a smear of dulce de leche — breakfast and dessert melded, and on steroids.
May 17, 2018